Tagged with pretty dresses

Worn Fashion Journal.

A romantic interpretation of what I did today.

I’m not sure how this periodical went under my radar for so many years but I’m so very glad that some back issues found their way under my Christmas tree this year.

Now, I am a person who deals with clothing. A lot. I make clothing almost every damn day. I made and designed costumes as a supplement to my official “College Education”. I have pressed my face into a couple of Charles James gowns to see what was up with that crazy construction he was so famous for. As a kid, I loved my Crayola-brand fashion design set. It had sheets printed with clothing elements that you would trace over and line up to create all sorts of late 80s, early 90s, big-sleeve’d, big-hair’d styles. And you know that shit got me believing that I could, very easily, become a fashion designer. In addition, I spent middle school, high school and all of college thrift shopping up a storm. At certain points, the Second Time Around Consignment shop in Toms River (not to be confused with the high end consignment boutiques in the New England area. This one smelled, and still smells, of house-bound grandmothers) became less of a store and more of a rotating closet due to my high turnover rate of purchasing and re-donating. By senior year, I must have approached the speed of sound- a sonic boom being created as I simultaneously entered and exited the door.

  Once, also in senior year of high school, my biology teacher handed me a test bearing something, like, a B- on it. “Don’t worry,” he said, “You’ll make a great fashion designer, someday.” Of course, that statement made me “worried” about a whole mess of other things.

Shortly after moving to Providence and setting up what could easily be called “my adult life”, I began a really nihilistic cycle of being. I’m not sure of the catalyst but I’ve come to suspect that it was something called “early 20s”. While I’m pressured to believe that the early 20s are a magical time that truly represents the bloom of upper-middle-class Northeastern-white-American youth, I’ve been perversely heartened to see my younger friends, one-by-one, falling into the same pit that I found myself in around 2007 and 2008..or 2009…or….sometimes…. now. At least it means that I’m fairly normal. Here’s hoping.

To try and pull myself out of the pit of “Ugh. Everything’s awful. Nothing matters. Then, you die.” (UEANMTYD?), I worked around the idea that if nothing matters, you are at least left with a blank slate. So, I made things matter. Blasting Lady Gaga at work mattered. Riding on the bike path mattered. Eating Chex mix until I puked really, really mattered. One by one, I allowed the joys to creep back in and positioned them to obscure the things the bothered me. As a patch job, it will do.

But clothing was kind of a weird one. It was indulgent. The industry around it is, undeniably, a multifaceted gem of all things disgusting. I told myself that I was too smart or too humble or too something and thus! able to resist the siren song of thinking about clothes that I like. Or styles that I like. Or general “Looking Good.”But, after a few years of only adding band t shirts to my wardrobe, it started to become clear that mid-20s Liz had to give up the stinky polyester and garish irony of mid teens Liz. I had to deal with style. Grown up Liz pruned her wardrobe and faced the facts that there were only a few colors that she cared to wear… and that was okay. Red, green, navy, and black. Polka dots and stripes. I even came out as someone who liked dresses. Which was kind of tough. I had long held onto the weird where-did-this-come-from belief that outright femininity was equivocal to pretty much everything bad and everything that I was not to actually be. Girliness was giving up. Girliness was failure.

But a love of clothing is not purely the territory of blushing, giggling folly. What about the fops? What about the historians and the caftan-clad art teachers? What about the vast sea of menswear blogs? I got into reading streetwear blogs, like Wardrobe Remix. I liked the reader-submitted content for its democracy and for the subtle ways that each picture would hint at the reality of its subject. Clothes had a function. Clothes had a life. When I would talk with my friend who was, at the time, in the beginning stages of transitioning from female to male, clothes became a big deal. Figuring out how to dress a currently-female body as a convincing and comfortable male body? That was a big, fucking deal. That was the death knell of seeing my interest in clothing and style as just being shitty, sugary icing on the gross cake of feminine vanity… for lack of a better metaphor. There is a reason we wear what we do. It can be studied. I can look at it closely and not feel ashamed.

So, that’s what makes me like, nay, love. Nay. LOVE. Worn Fashion Journal. It is topical but timeless. It features clothes but, more so, it is about clothes and why we wear what we do and why this is important. Style is all over the internet and this ubiquity has really made me question if I like… anything at all. Something, a style or a garment or a concept, might start off as something that I am drawn to but when it is laid out, writ large, and I can see it from beginning to end, it loses something. When something comes too easy, why want for it at all? I want it. I want to carry it around the house under my arm and read it during all moments of down time. Worn is so damn interesting and well made that it makes me forget that the internet exists. That is, maybe, the highest compliment that I have ever given. The thing I was interested in? Turns out that it is interesting again.

In fact, I am going to buy the 3 newest issues right now. I consider it an investment in relaxing this jaded heart of mine.

all images stolen from the worn website.

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Oh, Stewardess!

You might know that 1960s stewardess is one of my favorite styles when I think about what my perfect wardrobe might contain so when I came across these images on Les Yeux Sans Visage (via Pandora’s Closet), I had to pass them on. I know that Pan Am starring Wednesday Addams is going to drop real big in TV land this fall but, c’mon guys, I just started watching Mad Men. I only have room in my life to live vicariously through one current tv show and MM is just so full of good looks and unlikeable characters. Perfection. Plus, the set of the Draper house is so full of things that remind me of my grandparents’ house (which had been last decorated around roughly the same time) that I can’t help fight all those nostalgic, sensory memories of faux dark woods and smooth mid-century modern furniture (some of which I am resting my feet on RIGHT THIS VERY MINUTE!)

Anyhow, there will be a much more wordly post coming up soon, once I am able to stop nibbling the remaining fun from the rind of summer.

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Jr. Stewardess.

image from burdastyle.com

 Not to, you know, set feminism back 50 years or so, but if I had my way, I’d be dressed like a kicky 1960s stewardess as often as possible. This might even  become my next New Year’s Intention.

If you are a lucky Seattle-dwelling friend, you should check out the current exhibition at The Museum of Flight: Style in the Aisle- Air Line Looks Then and Now. If not for yourself, please, do it for me.

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Thrift Score.

Saver’s, Warwick, RI USA

 

I don’t usually buy sewing patterns in thrift stores because of the high chance that pieces are missing. But when I saw these classy ladies hanging out in the sad “craft” section at Saver’s, I had to make an exception. They are so cute and mod and nothing has been cut! These will be great for when I finally get back to sewing. I can crank out those “Cuts of Meat” dresses in my sleep but when I come home from a long day of doing so, sewing for myself is about the last thing I want to be doing. Sad face.

Untouched! Like, the memory of one dart is shown in one but otherwise, really pristine and not all powdery like modern tracing paper.

Woo, Elizabeth, NJ!

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A Solution.

As a follow up to last Monday’s grouse-a-rama, I submit to you, fair viewer, two “after” photos of consistently crummy quality:

Oh. Look. I have an opinion.

The red, glowing square under my elbow is a barber shop. Fascinating, no?

You guys! I like it so much more already! I did a preliminary pinning last night and decided that worm-waist had to go. Toodles. From waist band to head band in a couple measured snips. Ah. Nothing really feels like slicing into an expensive and unworn dress for the first time. Like taking the unmarked mystery allergy meds sitting in the bottom of my purse and knowing that my next half hour will find me either feeling awesome or face-down asleep where I sit.

It’s all cool, though. I feel awesome. I might change the buttons to red ones, but I am, otherwise, a far more happy dress owner. Eat it, clothing companies*

 

*Except for Saint James, who are free to send as many care packages as they like, as long as there are not from their god-awful women’s collection.
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To Creatures with a Little Less than Love.

Do you remember when I was pissing myself over the Dear Creatures Pigeon dress at the beginning of the fall?

Here’s a recap, just in case.

You don’t even know the half of it, friends. Even my boyfriend doesn’t know because he was rarely home when I would return from work and feverishly check through every site I could find that was selling DC. It was bad. It was really, really bad. I had a problem and I was just so ready to throw money at it.

Finally, woo hoo!, the day came and the ubiquitous “second party internet boutique image” was up and all over the place.

Guys. Styling is important. Seeing Budget Cher Horowitz modeling this sad, slouchy dress put those $150 beans right back into the bottom of my pocket. But then, a few weeks ago, Swirl.com had a DC sale and yes, I got caught up in the madness. The dress was almost a $100 off and they had the red and grey version- which I liked even more than the navy/cream because for the past year and running red/grey is my fav and go-to color combo. Now you know, Mom.

Then, there was some waiting.

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But wait! Today, it was waiting for me on my back staircase, yay! Enjoy this feeling of elation. It won’t last long.

I had heard tons and tons of adulation for this brand. I was even confused and believed that they manufactured their goods in, my home sweet home, the U S of A. Ha! Whoops! The first thing I was struck with was a nice, little “CHINA MADE” tag. Surely, something nice has been made in China. But I’m not sure what.

Bear in mind, I am not a textile expert (yet!) but I am a goddamn textile PROFESSIONAL. I made gorgeous clothes on the daily that retail for far less than the DC brand and, I’m convinced, are of far greater quality:

While I understand that knitwear is far more specific and delicate work than your normal, commercial garment construction, I was very, very underwhelmed by what I held in my hands.

Pros: the stripes lined up, it was soft.

Cons: Oh lord. Where to begin?

The fabric: textile content reads “45.1% Cotton, 36.9% Acric 18% Polyurethane”. We’ll assume that “acric” was a misprint of the word “acrylic” because “acric” is a variation of “Aceric” or “Pertaining to, or obtained from, the maple; as, aceric acid.” That could explain some shit. The weave is super fine and the knit itself is way too thin to be an unlined dress. I must have been crazy to believe that for 150 smackers I would be getting something that had a little life to it. Something heavier than most of the t-shirts that I own… and I’m not even talking about those rugged Hanes Beefy Tees that are scratchy and plasticy and take over a year to soften up.

Because the knit is so fine, the “fitted waist”, which is just a 3/2 rib, is ineffectual. It does nothing to shape the garment (note the blousey effect in the top picture) and does everything to create an unflattering band that doesn’t even hit at my waist.  It just looks like the reproductive section of an earth worm.

I really had to yank it down to get it that low.

Now, y’alls can take the easy route and just clamor and spam that my ass is just too fat to exist and, friend, there are days when I would agree with you. But I sincerely believe that clothing is a 3-D art and part of that is dressing a body that inhabit all three of those demensions.

I ordered a size large knowing that, with jugs like mine, I would fill out the top pretty well. No poofin’, no blousin’ expected.  But I’m really bummed by the proportions. I’m only 5’4″ and having problems with the torso length, so what about someone at all taller than me? Interestingly, the hem of the dress hits just above my knees- which I love. But again, what if you’re not 5’4″?  The dress is advertised as knee length and those proportions should change accordingly. If anything, since it is a knit and has a good deal of stretch (which was supposedly designed to be a little loose but you would never be able to tell by looking at the flat garment), editing for length should take charge over adjusting the width.

My most straight forward complaint is that the dress I received is not the one in the picture. On my dress, the stripes are bright, orangey red. It’s a much less lush color combination. Way more bicentennial/polyester/”virgin acrylic” style than “romantic winter nautica”. Also, the above buttons are a nice, pearly maroon whereas mine are a shiny, flat grey with silver edging around the outsides and the holes. It’s unsuited for the design and tres cheap looking. Sad face.

What a bummer, right? But at least I have a few solutions: 1) Wear a slip to remedy gross cling issues. If that doesn’t work,  2) hack out the waistband and sew the skirt to the top to create a babydoll dress. But mostly 3) this was such a disappointing experience. It’s like the internet lied to me!! Dear Creatures designs are so spot on, I almost feel no need to consider my future designing clothes because they’ve made so many things that I wish I had come up with!!! Until now, I’d looked at them with admiration. That’s over. Far, far over. I’ll content myself to hang out in my studio and make my own wardrobe riffing on their designs but with a greater concern towards fit and quality. Being good at making clothing requires knowing how clothes are actually made and how they actually fit. Let’s go back to the days when designers had to apprentice as tailors! Let’s go back to the days when you had to have a superior product! Let’s go back to the days when you had to know the full spectrum of your trade!

Sorry, Creatures.

Here's a great image that came up when I searched for "Pigeon Dress".

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Tutorial Time! 90s Baby Doll Dress.

I can’t say that there are many interests of mine from the mid-90s that have endured. T-shirts with b-boy styled Charlie Brown or Taz dancing on both the front and the back? The novelty flavors of Jones Soda? Nine Inch Nails’ Perfect Drug remixes? Okay… mostly “no” on that last one. Other things I don’t miss include my mom dropping me off and picking me up from places because I was still a lame, greasy middle school-er. But one continuing love of mine, almost certifiably “vintage” in its longevity is, what I have considered to be, “the perfect 90s dress.” As you can see, this is something that I am serious about.

Welcome to the Library. The library is also a closet.

It wasn’t even until after the mid-90s that I actually my own money to spend on cute dresses, not to mention their sartorial brethren: the cardigan sweater and the baby barrette. However, my financial boon coincided with fallow period between when a trend becomes passe but before it gets discarded in the donation bin of the thrift store. Thus, my desire for the perfect 90s dress, the kind sold by The Limited, or The Express, or even the label All That Jazz via Caldor’s in the wake of Lisa Loeb’s stylistically galvanizing Stay video, continued to exist but the object was still just out of my reach.

Lately, thanks to the internet, the shlubs as Urban Outfitters, and young bloggers’ agreed upon desire to costume themselves in garments that supposedly harken back to the good old days that they can’t actually remember, this style of dress continues to be so, so elusive. It’s snatched up and resold by money grubbing 17 year olds- high school provides endless hours of idleness for thrifting adventures, if I do recall correctly and the usability of the internet allows anyone with one finger to spin those rayon threads into (supposed) gold – or similarly speculative, money-grubbing curated (contrived) vintage (junk) shops. Lame.

But I’m not bitter.

Necessity being the mother of invention and all, next time you are out scrapping around for values galore, cast an eye to what my rooommate and I refer to as “polygamist wife dresses”. Big, flowery, floppy, and asexual- it is here that you will find the surprising older, dumpier sister of your desired style, just waiting to be made into the cute dress that  you have always wanted and, dang it, rightfully deserve! Here’s how!

1. I suppose a basic or above knowledge of sewing. You’ve taken in some t-shirts or made an a-line skirt. You don’t need to have a serger, but you should know how to use the zig-zag stitch on your machine if you have a knit or a stretch velvet (like I used). You don’t need to know how to dunk, per se, you have some strong fundamentals.

1a. Select a garment.

I picked this heavy-weight, stretchy velvet dress with long sleeves and an empire waist. Cuddly, warm, and comfy. When selecting a dress for this project, go up a few sizes but keep proportion in mind. For example, I’m kinda swimming in this dress, but the empire waist seam and the shoulder seams hit where they are supposed to hit and the neckline isn’t too horibble. Not having to fiddle with the fit in these areas helps to make this project so quick.

2. Figure out where you need to take the dress in and up.

After trying on the dress and inspecting its fit, I decided that it needed to come in about 3 inches from each side at the empire waist (tapering out into the original side seams about 4 inches above and 7 inches below). I wanted the dress to be really short, so I marked where I wanted it to hit when finished and then added an 1″ to that measurement. I also decided that I wanted 3/4 sleeves, so, with one clean hack, I cut the original sleeves off about an inch or two below my elbow.

It looks a little boxy, but don’t freak!

3. Sew up your side seams.

Try the dress on and make sure that the fit throughout the torso is a-o-k. Even out any lumps or bumps. Trim down any large seam allowances.

4. Add the cuffs!

This is the part that makes your at-home-sewing-project look like something that is not an at-home-sewing-project: the fold over cuff. It’s a pretty sweet little trick that goes a long way.

Take the left overs from when you cut your sleeves down. These will become your folded over cuffs. Consider how deep you want your finished cuffs to be, then double that number and add a little for seam allowance. I want my cuffs to be about 3″ so I doubled it 7″. Now take your sleeve, presumably still sewn up one side so that it is a tube, turn it inside out, and cut it to that doubled length. Your sleeve may be slightly tapered towards the wrist, so take this time to even it out so that it appears mostly rectangular, as above.

(You’ll want to keep the width of the cuff relatively similar to the width of the end of your sleeve. If it is a little smaller, less than 3/4″, you can still stretch it while sewing, but if you are unfamiliar with sewing knits, you may wish to avoid this particular learning curve.)

Once you have completed that, start to turn the fabric right side out, but stop about half-way. Line up the raw edges of your fabric to form a short tube. Tada! A cuff!

 

5. Attach cuffs to sleeves.


Turn your dress right side out. Slip the cuff over the arm of the dress and match up the 3 raw edges, all around the cuff. Pin into place. Sew around this open edge. Flip your cuff down and inspect your handy work. Repeat on the other side.

 

6. Hem your dress.

Using your preferred method of finishing, turn the hem of the dress up an inch and stitch into place. I finished my edge with a serger, folded it up, and secured it with a wide zig-zag stitch.

 

7. Put your new dress on and prance around.

You earned it, kid!

Welcome back to the scenic closet! Also serves as the dog's room!

So, reader, how was this tutorial for you? Dumb? Awful? Not at all helpful? Please let me know. Instructional writing is not my forte (nor is indoor photography), but I am trying to improve! Holla atcha grrrl.

 

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A thousand pardons

No news is good news as I am currently working for Kelly E. of I’m Your Present, a totally awesome fashion line based out of one little studio in Providence, RI. We make everything that you see there by hand and with love (while washing down handfuls of candy corn with Diet Coke), Thus the incredibly sweet nature of all the goods.

Gasp!
I was also able to shove my willing friend Meg into the ol’ tattoo dress.

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